Back From Bangkok, Despite Red Shirts and Red Faces

I recently returned from ten days in Bangkok, thefound Mr. Thaksin guilty in absentia and was
capital of Thailand. While there, I discovered that Isentenced to two years in jail for a corrupt land deal.
knew very little about Thai politics, certainly notFollowing his conviction, Mr. Thaksin left his residence
enough to know who the Red Shirts were or whyin Britain for Hong Kong. Somewhat surprisingly, Mr.
they were demonstrating in Bangkok. Being presentThaksin also owned the Manchester City football club
in a country when something out of the ordinary isfor slightly more than a year beginning in mid-2007
happening tends to focus one's attention on thatduring his short stay in Britain.
country not only during the visit but also subsequent- Beginning on 25 November 2008, the
to it. For me, I seem to gain a vested interest in aanti-government Yellow Shirts invaded and occupied
place if I was there during an important event. ForBangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport before
this reason, my knowledge of Thai politics beganalso occupying the Don Murng airport down the road.
changing during my visit there. Now back home, IAs part of the Yellow Shirts' plan to force PM
remain interested in following the news of theSomchai to resign, their occupation was to prevent
anti-government protests of the Red Shirts inSomchai from returning to Thailand from the APEC
Bangkok.Summit in Peru. The Yellow Shirts refused to leave
In January 2010, I started planning a month-long tripthe airports unless a change of government took
to India. At the same time I managed to convince aplace.
good friend living in Sydney to meet me in Bangkok- On 2 December 2008, Thailand's Constitutional
after my travels in India. We agreed to meet inCourt met the demands of the Yellow Shirts by
Bangkok the second week of March. Our plansfinding the country's government guilty of election
consisted of staying for four nights in Bangkokfraud. The court ruled that PM Somchai was banned
before travelling down to a beach resort south offrom politics and demanded that his party be
Pattaya for a further four nights. Our last two daysdissolved.
would be spent in Bangkok before flying home. Not- On 3 December 2008, the Yellow Shirts' occupation
surprisingly, our plans didn't always follow the line weof the airports ended.
expected them to due to the political unrest in- 17 December 2008, Abhisit Vejjajiva, a rival of Mr.
Bangkok.Thaksin and his two successors, formed a new
My friend was already aware from the Australiangovernment and became prime minister.
media that the Thai government expected protests- In April 2009, the Red Shirts staged a brief move
and possible clashes with a group called the Redto oust the government of PM Abhisit. There were
Shirts around the time we were meeting in Bangkok.brief riots following the Red Shirts' attempts to storm
Coming from London, I don't remember reading orthe Asean summit.
hearing anything about the politics in Thailand that- February 2010 Thailand's Supreme Court ruled that
would have alerted me to any future trouble. MyUS$1.4 billion of Mr. Thaksin's frozen assets in Thailand
friend wrote me a worried email about three weeks(more than half of these assets) be seized by the
before we were to meet in Bangkok. She read ofcourt based on unanimously finding Mr. Thaksin guilty
the mounting uneasiness of the Thai government andon five counts of corruption.
other Asian states regarding the proposed- On 12 March 2010 the Red Shirts began assembling
anti-government demonstrations. I, again, brushed offfor weekend protests on 13 & 14 March in Bangkok.
her concerns. It wasn't until we were in Bangkok thatThe leaders stated that they would stay in Bangkok
I realised things were more serious than I thoughtfor five days in a move designed to pressure the
and that she was right in being concerned!current government to call new elections. Reports
I arrived in Bangkok from Delhi on Tuesday morning,stated that Mr. Thaksin was behind these protests
9 March 2010, with my friend arriving several hoursand he was footing the bill for the Red Shirts
later from Sydney. We were staying at the Davisparticipation.
Hotel in the eastern part of Bangkok for four nights.- 22 April 2010, the Red Shirts continued to remain in
I heard nothing about any demonstrations at thethe capital and worsening violence occurred when
international airport, from the taxi driver or from thefive M-79 grenades are shot from near the Red
hotel staff when I arrived. The two of us started ourShirts' encampment. At least 86 people were
sightseeing of Bangkok on Wednesday andwounded and one killed.
Thursday, travelling by river boat and skytrain to the- 28 April 2010, one Thai soldier was shot dead in a
various sights. It was only late Thursday that weclash north of Bangkok between government troops
started to get the news that the 'Red Shirts' hopedand Red Shirts. Two days before, PM Abhisit said his
to have a million demonstrators for their weekendgovernment was running out of patience.
protests. Our hotel staff recommended that we stay- On 29 April 2010, the Yellow Shirts intend to submit
around the hotel on Friday as they didn't know whatdemands to PM Abhisit to resolve the 'situation' with
to expect. We took their advice and listened closelythe Red Shirts if no solution has been reached by
to the news to see if we would have trouble leavingthat date.
the city the next morning for the seaside. ThereBack to My Story
were already reports of people massing in BangkokDuring our stay at Jomtien Beach, we snapped up
for the weekend demonstrations. At the same time,every mention of the Bangkok protests from
the reports indicated that the numbers arriving tonewspaper stories, TV reports and also from the
protest were much smaller than expected.resort's staff. While there wasn't any apparent
The next day we left for Jomtien Beach just southviolence against others, the current prime minister,
of Pattaya Beach. Again we saw no indication ofAbhisit Vejjajiva, rejected any demands for dissolving
trouble. There were no obstacles or police-blocks onhis government. Several days after our arrival, the
the road as we left the city nor as we drove on theante was upped by the Red Shirts. Nattawut Saikua,
motorway down to Pattaya. During the weekend,a leader of the Red Shirts, called for a blood curse
we began hearing more about demonstrations, theagainst "the government, the aristocrats and the
size of the crowds and the rhetoric of the leaders ofpowerful people". Protestors were encouraged to
the Red Shirts. It was reported that instead of agive blood to be thrown on different government
million demonstrators only about 100,000 Red Shirtbuildings.
demonstrators had turned up in Bangkok by Sunday.On Tuesday, 16 March, huge containers of collected
We learned that the low numbers were due, in part,blood were thrown on different government sites
to the government blockades of all access roads toincluding the prime minister's residence. There were
Bangkok from the northern rural areas.also reports of the huge undertaking by the
It may be that you are now wondering, "What aregovernment to prevent any of this blood, some of
these coloured shirts in Thailand? Who are the Redwhich may have been contaminated, from reaching
Shirts? Are they different from the Yellow Shirts?"the water table beneath Bangkok. Hearing about this
Let me explain:blood curse made this demonstration even more
As a generality, the Red-shirts are supported by thesurreal and macabre. Our own plans for our last night
rural populace and the urban poor. The Red Shirts arein Bangkok were thrown in disarray. We began
also known as the 'United Front for Democracyworrying whether the hotel we booked in the
against Dictatorship' (UDD). They supported thefinancial area of Bangkok would be caught up in the
former prime minister of Thailand from 2001 to 2006,protests. We decided to cancel our booking at this
Thaksin Shinawatra, because they believed he caredhotel and made a new one at the Davis Hotel where
what happened to them and listened to theirwe first stayed. The next day when we heard about
problems. Despite PM Thaksin's billions of dollars inthe blood curse the owners of the resort suggested
wealth, he is considered a hero to the downtroddenwe cancel our reservation at the Davis hotel as the
Thais. Not surprisingly, the Red Shirts supported theprime minister's residence was nearby. We then
next two prime ministers chosen by the samechose a third hotel at the edge of the financial
government: Samak Sundaravej and Somchaidistrict, ing nearer to the river which we hoped was
Wongsawat. There are also pro-democracy activistsout of area of protests.
participating in the current demonstrations whoWe drove back to Bangkok for our last two days in
disagree with the legal foundation of the 2006 militarythe capital. We saw no signs of any demonstrations
coup which ousted PM Thaksin.and felt a bit foolish for changing hotels so many
The Red Shirts fundamental belief is that the presenttimes. There seemed to other cars especially as we
government of Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva isreached the streets of Bangkok. Transportation,
illegitimate because it came to power after disputedincluding public buses and skytrains seemed to be
court rulings dissolved two elected pro-Thaksinoperating as usual. We were untouched by any
governments, following the 2006 military coup. Theydemonstrations. While we didn't continue with our
want the current parliament dissolved and newgeneral sightseeing plans, we did explore our local
elections held.community. It was only as we drove out to the
The Yellow Shirts are mainly middle-class and urbanSuvarnabhumi International Airport to leave that we
elites who support the current government of PMsaw military jeeps closing off several lanes of road
Abhisit. The Yellow Shirts are one of Thailand's activeleading up to the airport.
political groups, the 'People's Alliance for Democracy'What we learned in Bangkok from speaking to Thais
(PAD). They are sometimes joined by an anti-Redworking in restaurants, shops, and taxis was that
Shirt group which attracts office employees,most of them supported the Red Shirt
middle-class families, academics and some low-wagedemonstrations. This rather surprised me as I thought
workers. In previous demonstrations by the Yellowthey would be supportive of former PM Thaksin
Shirts', there has generally been more violence andsince he was found guilty of several counts of
confrontation.corruption. There seemed to be several reasons for
this support. First, I heard several Thai people say
What is behind the current Red Shirts'their support for the Red Shirts' protest was due to
demonstration?the lack of aggression and violence of its members.
In a quick and somewhat superficial history lesson ofThe Red Shirts were viewed as being peaceful and
Thai politics, I set out the followingdates and facts inpassive. This was in direct contrast to the protests
an attempt to make this very complicated tale ofby the Yellow Shirts one and two years prior when
corruption and short-lived governments in Thailandthe demonstrations were violent and aggressive. A
slightly more comprehensible:second reason for the support of the Red Shirts'
- In 2006, the Yellow Shirts led protests against themovement was that those in the lower levels of the
then prime minister of Thailand, Thaksin Shinawatra,economy, including shopworkers and taxis drivers and
because of alleged corruption. Mr. Thaksin becamethose living and working in the country, haven't felt
prime minister of Thailand in 2001. Prior to becomingrepresented by the more urban elite in Bangkok,
prime minister, Mr. Thaksin earned billions of dollars inwhose members included aristocrats. Another reason
telecom ventures. PM Thaksin was supported by thegiven by someone in education was that Thai politics
Red Shirts.had taken a dangerous turn since the 2006 military
- In September 2006, PM Thaksin was ousted by acoup. This person believed that following the coup,
military coup amidst various charges of corruption. Hethe government had silenced the voices coming from
moved to Britain shortly after where he remainedthe broad swathe of Thai society. The voices had
until October 2008. It was not until after more than abeen silenced using different laws to squash free
year of military control that new elections were heldspeech and avoid a candid debate. There are
in Thailand in December 2007.indications that there are those in the military who
- February 2008, an ally of Mr. Thaksin's, Samakare sympathetic to the Red Shirts' cause. In very
Sundaravej, was sworn in as the new prime minister.simplistic terms, the Red Shirts and the Yellow Shirts
The Red Shirts supported this government, too.represent a class struggle.
- In August 2008 there were protests by thePersonally, I felt sorry for the Thai people who still
anti-government Yellow Shirts culminating in aremain friendly and warm towards the tourists that
three-month occupation of certain governmentcome to their country. Since my last visit to Bangkok
buildings by the protestors. This occupation continued13 years ago, they also seemed to be more wary
through the November occupation of the Bangkokand even a bit weary. I thought this distancing was
airports.because they were disillusioned with tourists but now
- September 2008, Prime Minister Samak wasI think they were wondering what was happening
dismissed under a Constitutional Court ruling due to awith their government. They are hardworking and
conflict of interest in accepting payments for hiskind people who want to be heard and also have a
appearances on a popular Thai cooking show.stable government. Their recent governments have
Following PM Samak's dismissal, Somchai Wongsawatneither lasted nor generally been truthful. Time will tell
(the brother-in-law of Mr. Thaksin, prime minister untilwhether the current government led by PM Abhisit
2006) was sworn in as the new prime minister.follows its immediate predecessors or it finds its own,
- In October 2008 the Supreme Court of Thailandstraighter path.